Wool History
About 200 B.C. the development of skins for writing led to parchment,
which is made by simply removing the wool or hair from the skin and
allowing it to dry in a stretched condition, parchment, unlike leather,
is not tanned. The very first parchments were the fragments from the
Dead Sea Scrolls, roughly 2,000 years old. In around 1800 B.C. the civilization
of Babylonia was famous for its wool. The people distinguished food
sheep from wool sheep. There was also a unique grading of the wool into
three groups; Mountain Wool, Second quality and Good quality. The first
fleece is dated back to 5000 B.C. in the form of a crude clay image
of a sheep found at Sarab in Iran.
The earliest remains of true fine wool came from the Greek colony of
Nymphaeum in the Crimea, dating back to the 5th Century B.C. The wool
of the early wild species of sheep tended to have a short, woolly undercoat
covered by long coarse straight hair. But this has disappeared in the
domestic breeds instead improving the quality and abundance of the wool.
They also had black or brown coats to act as a camouflage against predators.
The oldest wool cloth was found in a bog in Denmark, which was made
in about 1500 B.C.
The finest wool during Roman times came from Tarentium in about 37
B.C. and during these times there were definite signs of selective breeding.
The Romans developed a special strain of sheep called the Terenton that
had a superior fleece, but required special care, as it lacked hardiness.
During the Middle Ages wool was England's main export trade, with every
European country relying on England for it. By the end of the 18th Century
there were more than 300 british laws detailing every aspect of the
sheep trade.
The world's animal population has many species with bodily covering
of hair, fur or wool. Animals in cold regions developed over millions
of years a combination of long, tough hairs, combined with a fine, dense
underfur. This produced a layer system to insulate out low temperatures,
wind and water. In equatorial regions, animals developed short sleek
coats (which may change seasonally) in order to protect their skins
from the burning and heating effect of the sun's direct rays.
Primitive man protected his body with animal skins, and he learned
to appreciate the merits of alternative furs according to fibre length,
fibre fineness (or fibre diameter) and fibre density of the pelt. Innovative
man eventually looked beyond furs to other fibrous materials, and he
began to prepare them; to twist them, to interweave them, and make garments
to suit his needs.
Wool Characteristics:
Wool is an extremely complex protein, evolved over millions of years
for the protection of warmblooded animals in a great variety of climates
and conditions. By comparison, synthetic fibres are simple, having been
designed for specific limited purposes.
Wool fibre is so resilient and elastic that it can be bent 30,000 times
without danger of breaking or damage. Every wool fibre has a natural
elasticity and wave or crimp that allows it to be stretched as much
as one third and then spring back into place. Its complex cellular structure
also enables it to absorb moisture vapour but repel liquid - try and
soak up water with a wool cloth. No synthetic fibre has been able to
combine all these characteristics.
Wool fibre comprises:
An outer layer of scales and the bulk of the fibre, called the cortex.
This is made up of millions of long cells held together by a strong
natural binding material. This material is made up - put simply - of
paracortex and orthocortex, each with slightly different qualities,
that give wool fibre the characteristic "crimp" or small curls.
Wool's Natural Properties
Wool, one of the oldest textile fibres known, has survived the test
of time because of its unique natural properties. The basic characteristics
wool possessed in the Stone Age era, for instance, are still the fundamental
qualities that make wool unique in this 20th century. Today there are
many other textile fibres, but as yet science has not been able to produce
another fibre containing all the natural properties of wool. Wool remains
unique; a masterpiece of design.
Wool Insulates Against Heat and Cold
Because it absorbs moisture vapour, wool clothing provides superior
comfort in both hot and cold weather. In cold weather even a little
moisture on the skin becomes cold, quickly reducing body temperature.
However, by absorbing body moisture a dry layer of air is left next
the skin and this helps to hold in body heat. In addition the crimp
in the wool fibres makes them stand apart from
each other. As a result, little pockets of still air are trapped between
the fibres. This lining of air trapped inside the fabric acts as an
insulator. Still air is one of the best insulators found in nature.
The absorption/evaporation process works in hot weather to help keep
the body cooler. Evaporation of perspiration is the body's natural cooling
device. Wool helps this process along. Its thirsty cells absorb body
vapours and help reduce skin temperature. Also, much of the outdoor
heat is blocked out because of wool's insulating barrier of air pockets.
This means that the body is kept at an even temperature.
Wool is Healthy
Because wool has the ability to insulate against heat and cold, it protects
against sudden changes of temperature, and it lets your body breathe.
Wool can absorb up to 30 percent of its own weight in moisture before
it becomes really damp. As moisture is absorbed heat is generated so
that the wool remains warm rather than cold and clammy. After doing
strenuous work or playing sport it is a good idea to pull on a wool
jumper as it allows the body to cool down slowly
and chills are prevented.
Wool is Water Repellent
While wool can absorb moisture, it repels liquids. The scales on the
outside of the fibre cause liquid to roll off the surface of the wool
fabric. For instance, if you accidentally spill water on the floor,
it is no use trying to mop it up with an old wool jumper because the
wool will not absorb the liquid. Similarly, if you are caught in a shower
or rain, it will take quite some time before the rain penetrates your
wool clothing, and so wool keeps you dry. Even if wool does eventually
get wet it generates heat and keeps you warm, not cold and clammy.
Wool is Fire Resistant
Wool is naturally safe. It does not have to be specially treated to
become non-flammable. While it can catch alight, it will not flare up
nor support a flame. Instead of burning freely, once the flame is removed
a cold ash is left which can be brushed away immediately. Wool does
not melt when burned, and so cannot stick to the skin and cause serious
burns. Because of its fire-resistant qualities, wool blankets, furnishings
and carpets in your home are necessary insurance, and wool for clothing
(particularly children) will protect from accidents associated with
fire. Firemen wear wool uniforms, and fire-fighters in rural areas should
always ensure they dress themselves in wool before rushing to fight
a fire.
Wool is Naturally Elastic
Wool's natural elasticity, greater than that of any other fibre, makes
it comfortable to wear because it fits the shape of the body. Wool can
be twisted, turned and stretched, and yet it returns to its natural
shape. This is why wrinkles disappear from wool garments when they are
rested, and why wool carpets retain their springy pile for many years.
A wool fibre when dry can be extended by about 30 percent. When wet
it will stretch by between 60 and 70 percent. This means that a wool
garment gives freedom of movement, especially important for children's
clothes and sportswear, when ease of movement is all important.
Wool Wears Longer
Wool not only wears longer, it also keeps its good appearance and stays
new-looking longer. It doesn't get shabby in a short space of time.
Each wool fibre is made up of millions of "coiled springs"
that stretch and give rather than break, and so wool is extremely durable.
Wool stands up to the stresses and strains of normal wear because it
gives rather than resists friction. The durability and strength of the
coarser wool gives us furnishings materials and carpets which retain
their good appearance for a long time. One of the reasons why so many
people hang on to a favourite old wool garment for so many years is
because it retains its original appearance longer than most other fabrics.
Wool is Versatile
Wool fabric, knitwear and carpets are made from a wide range of wool
types varying from extrafine for suits and knitwear through to broad
fibres which give carpets their strength and character. This means that
wool gives designers endless potential for their creations - from delicate
fabrics to rugged outdoor wear. Wool technologists have developed an
endless number of combinations of weave, knits and textures, from sheer
lacy knits and light airy worsteds to bulky tweeds and heavy overcoating.
Different sheep breeds, each with their own unique fibre characteristics
provide manufacturers with different wools for an even wider range of
products.
Blending various wool types in different ways adds further to wool's
versatility. It is small wonder then that wool is found in products
as diverse as paint-rollers and mattresses, carpets and coats, furnishing
fabrics and high-fashion suits, blankets and underwear, curtains and
skiwear, wall paper and tennis ball coverings.
Wool Resists Static
Because wool naturally absorbs moisture from the air, the tendency to
collect static electricity is reduced. Walking across a wool carpet,
you are less likely to receive a shock when you touch a grounded object.
Wool garments are much less likely to "spark" or cling to
the body.
Wool Insulates Against Noise
As mentioned above wool is a wonderful insulator against noise. It absorbs
sound and reduces noise level considerably. For this reason wool wallpaper
is often used in offices, restaurants, airport terminals, etc. Wool
is also an ideal material used in such places as concert halls to attain
the best acoustics possible.
Wool Resists Dirt
Wool resists dirt, retains its appearance, and stays cleaner longer.
Its ability to absorb moisture prevents a build-up of static electricity
and therefore wool does not attract lint and dust from the air. Furthermore
the crimp in the wool fibre and the scales on the outside of the fibre
assist in keeping dirt from penetrating the surface. The same qualities
also make it easier to clean.
Wool is Easy to Sew
For the home dressmaker, wool cuts cleanly, doesn't fray, drapes naturally,
doesn't crush with handling and pins don't mark it. It responds instantly
to shaping by iron and steaming and then holds shape.
Wool is Fashionable
Leading designers throughout the world prefer to use wool - it comes
in a wide choice of textures, weaves and weights, and is suitable for
any style required. No fabric drapes like wool fabric. It is alive,
flexible and tailors easily. The soft and easy "give and take"
of the wool fibre keeps garments in shape, prevents stretching and sagging,
and resists wrinkling.
Wool Dyes Beautifully
Wool dyes so easily and the range of colours is limitless. The scales
on the surface of the wool fibre tend to diffuse light giving less reflection
and a softer colour. Because proteins in the core of the fibre are reactive,
they can absorb and combine with a wide variety of dyes. This means
that the wool holds its colour well as the dye becomes part of the fibre.
Wool is Comfortable
Wool is so comfortable to wear because its elasticity means garments
fit so well and yield to body movement. It absorbs moisture, allows
your body to breathe, yet never feels damp and clammy. No other fabric
serves so well under such a variety of conditions, nor combines so many
natural properties.
Information provided by Australian Wool Inc. http://www.wool.com.au
